Start early at Camilien-Houde Belvedere on Mount Royal, where the city opens below you in the morning light. Then head to Mile End for a Montreal bagel and coffee, a small but very local breakfast ritual. From there, drive to Ile d'Orleans, a rural island known for farms, fresh produce and French-Canadian roots. Lunch is at La Cantine chez Mag, with the chance to try lobster poutine, followed by maple tastings, a winery stop and the road on to Baie-Saint-Paul.